5 Signs of a Poorly Maintained Watch for Second-Hand Buyers
Now is a great time to invest in luxury watches to get more value for your money. Following an unprecedented luxury goods boom amid the pandemic, the secondary luxury watch market has declined in performance, resulting in the lowest prices since January 2021.
While demand remains low, it’s a perfect opportunity to purchase a pre-loved timepiece at a more affordable rate and resell it when the value increases! Our research shows Patek Philippe is the best-performing luxury watch brand, with an ROI of 207% between 2017 and 2022.
Turning a profit on luxury watches is all about wisely timed sales and purchases and ensuring the product’s quality is up to scratch. Of course, many invest in a second-hand luxury watch for their own prized collection with no intention of reselling. However, it’s still important to check the previous owner properly cared for it, ensuring you’re getting good value for money with a watch that will stand the test of time.
In this blog post, we’ll highlight the five biggest physical signs of a poorly maintained timepiece that could indicate further problems beneath the surface.
1) Condensation
Condensation and water droplets can occur on a watch’s glass surface in a humid environment, which should go away with a quick wipe. If you’re unable to remove the condensation, and the dial is fogging and making it difficult to read, moisture or a leak has likely gotten trapped inside the watch case.
Potential causes
Exposure to harsh chemicals or high temperatures, such as in a sauna, can compromise the watch’s seal and leave it vulnerable to moisture. Additionally, exposure to water beyond the watch’s resistance levels — usually labelled on the case back or in the manual — can damage the seals.
A watch described as ‘waterproof’ is likely only resistant to a specific depth of water, while ‘water-resistant’ often means it can withstand humidity, and a small amount of water, such as when washing your hands, but shouldn’t be engulfed in water. If the watch doesn’t seem to have a resistance rating, avoid all water exposure.
Cracked watch glass, potentially from physical impact or wearing in unsuitable situations, also leaves the watch vulnerable to contamination.
While natural wear and tear alone can degrade the seal over time, you can slow it down by avoiding wearing it in extreme environments, following the manufacturer’s guidance, and getting the watch professionally serviced.
Long-term impact
Trapped moisture can cause the precision lubricants to break down, interfering with the watch’s movements and causing unusual noises, making the crowns and pushers difficult to operate or even mechanical failure. If exposed to extreme temperature changes, the moisture can cause physical distortion of components that impact the movement. Ultimately, increased wear and tear on the movements can shorten the watch’s lifespan.
How to repair
To treat internal condensation, take the watch to a professional watchmaker as soon as possible to remove the moisture, assess the damage and conduct any required repairs. If left unaddressed, condensation can develop into rust and corrosion pitting, both of which will be discussed further in this blog post.
With limited exposure to the elements, a watch dial should be clear of fading, water droplets, or condensation.
2) Change in Colour
Some discolouration and fading can occur over time, with untreated gold alloys, bronze, and sterling silver being more prone, but the extent can intensify in various conditions. There is also an array of ways discolouration can form.
Potential causes
Discolouration, such as dull spots and fading, can simply indicate the previous owner wore the watch regularly, especially if it’s localised to areas that get the most contact, such as the case edges. This type of discolouration is often gradual and paired with other signs of wear and tear, like scratches. Stains from food, oil, dirt or similar can also create discoloured patches.
Uneven colour can also mean the coating has worn off due to scuffs, improper cleaning, high humidity levels, or the quality of the coating application, leaving the original metal on show.
Complete discolouration can signify a watch was left in a humid environment for long periods and may have developed corrosion.
UV rays can also cause bracelets to fade and leather straps to become brittle. Contact with various chemicals, including perfume, skin care products and cleaning items, can cause the colour to darken or dull. Long periods in direct sunlight can fade and dull the colours on the watch’s dials and hands.
Exposure to sulfur compounds in the air, moisture and chemicals can tarnish some metals, including silver and gold alloys, and turn them a dark grey, black or green.
Long-term impact
Extreme discolouration that’s immediately noticeable can diminish the appeal and value of a luxury watch. Additionally, a lack of shine and a dull colour can suggest the previous owner didn’t follow a regular cleaning routine, and therefore give the impression it’s in poor condition.
If the temperatures are extreme, direct sunlight can damage the internal mechanisms, impacting its timekeeping abilities and the battery’s lifespan.
How to repair
You can often restore a watch’s shine by polishing the metal with the right equipment. For leather straps, you can use leather care products, such as conditioners or restorers, to improve fading, but uneven discolouration or dark spots on leather are often signs it’s too far gone and needs replacing.
If you’re unsure of the best repair approach, professional watchmakers can advise whether cleaning, restoring, refinishing or just touching up the coating is necessary. Discoloured internal components often need replacing.
For most buyers, a high-polish finish with the original colour fully intact adds value to the watch. Any fading, uneven colour or dullness can also give the wrong impression of its condition.
3) Rust
Rust isn’t necessarily a deal-breaker, but it depends on the extent of the damage. The risk of rusting also depends on the type of metal used, but most, including stainless steel, can tarnish under the above conditions.
The precious metals, pure gold, silver and platinum are safe from rusting but are usually too soft to be used alone in jewellery and are often alloyed with other metals. However, rusting in high-quality luxury watches is very rare, and may be a sign that the timepiece isn’t worth a large investment.
Possible causes
Rust formation is often another sign of overexposure to water or moisture. Rusting of internal components, in particular, also suggests the watch was insufficiently sealed.
Even if highly water resistant, luxury watches can corrode if exposed to saltwater and chlorine without proper rinsing. Similarly, sweat can cause rust to form, due to the salt and chemicals it contains.
Other causes of rust include a build-up of dust, dirt, and grime, and unaddressed physical damages such as dents and scratches.
While stainless steel watches are often highly resistant to corrosion, rust may indicate it was made of or incorporated a lower-grade stainless steel which is more susceptible to rusting.
Long-term impact
Over time, an accumulation of dirt can impact the operation of the pushers and crowns, which are crucial functions for setting the time.
Rusting of internal components can also create friction between the movements and produce an unusual scraping noise.
How to repair
If it’s only minor and on the exterior surface, rust can often be removed with a light clean and polish. Severe rusting on the exterior may require a professional polish and refinish.
However, an in-depth repair service is often needed to treat any severe or internal rust, replace components or assess whether it is irreparable. A professional watchmaker can also investigate whether the rust is a sign of other, more functional problems caused by poor maintenance and incorrect care.
4) Corrosion Pitting
One of the deadliest signs of a poorly maintained watch is corrosion pitting — small but deep holes formed on the surface. Similarly to rusting, corrosion and pitting are very rare in high-end timepieces, due to a protective oxide layer, and may suggest the watch’s lower quality. However, corrosion can occur in certain conditions.
Potential causes
If the protective layer is damaged from exposure to saltwater, sweat, cleaning products or similar, the timepiece becomes vulnerable to dirt, water and moisture entering and attacking the metal.
Similarly, faulty seals and gaskets in a watch can allow elements like water, oxygen, saltwater, sweat, and dust to enter the watch case and create the environment for corrosion pitting to develop.
Following a regular luxury watch maintenance routine can prevent corrosion pitting, such as cleaning sweat and dirt, especially in areas (e.g., the screws) where grime is likely to get trapped. Also, regular servicing monitors the condition of the gaskets and seals, removes any built-up dirt, and restores any parts damaged by moisture.
Additionally, avoid exposing the watch to harsh chemicals, store it in a dry environment, and ensure you follow the water resistance label and dry it thoroughly when needed.
Long-term impact
Corrosion pitting can also lead to other faults like discolouration, rust and weakening of the metal surface. As well as visual issues, the pitting can cause functional problems. For example, corrosion around the crown and pushers can impact the operation of various features, like winding the watch.
Internal corrosion can also complicate repairs, increase the risk of damage, and compromise water resistance. Overall, corrosion pitting can dramatically reduce the resale value of a luxury watch and put off buyers looking to invest.
How to repair
Polishing can remove light and surface-level pitting, but this process can alter the watch’s shape and structural integrity over time. However, some watches can be refinished, depending on the texture.
For deep pitting, laser welding can be used to fill the pits with the same metal type as the watch case without severely changing the structure. This service is very expensive, though, as it requires the expertise of a skilled technician and still may not perfectly match the original finish. In some cases, the only option is to replace the case or bracelet, which is often costly and can lower the watch’s resale value.
For watch collectors wanting to rule out the possibility of corrosion, timepieces made from precious metal platinum are significantly resistant to pitting, but are sold at a much higher price, and are much heavier to wear than stainless steel. While platinum is durable, it’s also soft, making it very vulnerable to scratches.
Titanium watches are a good balance between the two, being less likely to corrode than stainless steel and cheaper than platinum. However, titanium timepieces are less commonly available, and some feel they lack the luxury aesthetic.
5) Excessive scratching
Inevitably, wristwatches will acquire the odd scratches through wear and tear, and some even think it adds to a watch’s aesthetic, but the scratches should be minimal. If the watch is covered in scratches, scuffs and even dents, it could suggest it hasn’t been worn or stored carefully.
Possible causes
Excessive scratching may be present if the previous watch owner wore the timepiece during physical activities or in unsuitable environments. They may also have handled it without care, such as dropping it frequently and storing it improperly. Shock impact can also impact internal components, damaging the movement and creating a rattling or clicking noise.
To prevent scratches occurring when not in use, ensure the watch is stored:
- in its original box
- in the right position
- facing up
- with a clean and soft cloth
- away from people who may mishandle it
The previous owner may also have failed to clean it and get it serviced regularly, allowing dirt to build up and develop into micro-abrasions over time.
Watches made from soft metals like pure gold, platinum, and titanium, are more prone to scratches, especially if they don’t have a protective scratch-resistant coating. At the same time, inexpensive materials like acrylic also scratch easily, which is rarely used in luxury watches.
Long-term impact
The shine and smooth finish of luxury watches can decline, especially if made from soft metals, with excessive scratching. The overall aesthetic appeal will likely decrease with a lot of scratches and consequently, lower the watch’s value.
While scratches are mostly superficial flaws, they can, over time, cause metals to thin and weaken parts of the case or bracelet.
Deep scratches around the gasket and seal can also impact the water resistance, allowing moisture and water to seep inside. If the watch’s seal is compromised, debris can also invade the watch and interfere with the mechanisms, which may result in unusual ticking or scratching noises.
How to repair
Polishing and buffing can remove some scratches, but using an unclean cloth or excess pressure
can actually add scratches. Overpolishing a watch can remove material and diminish the original craftsmanship.
Different types of watches also require different polishing methods and frequencies. If you’re unsure of the best way to clean a watch, seek the expertise of a professional watchmaker who can also assess any deep scratches, which may require refinishing or replacing components.
While it’s possible to repair some of these physical defects, if they’re a result of poor maintenance, they could indicate further problems impacting the watch’s function. Repairing surface-level faults can also alter the overall aesthetic of a watch and lower its value. So, when looking for a luxury watch, look out for these signals and consider whether it’s worth your investment. To ensure the quality of a second-hand watch and minimise the risk of facing these defects, buy from professional and trusted watch sellers.
See how Luxe Watches transformed a worn and scratched watch into a shiny timepiece in pristine condition: