Return of the dress watch: Why ‘classic’ is making a comeback

For years, we’ve been dominated by all kinds of sports watches, massive cases and highly sought-after steel icons. From the boardroom to the red carpet, larger-than-life timepieces have become mega status symbols.

However, a new trend is emerging among collectors and enthusiasts: a return to refined elegance.

That’s right… The dress watch is making its comeback.

A celebration of craftsmanship

Collectors are looking beyond the obvious and rediscovering the charm of classic watchmaking. 

Defined by its slim profile and timeless appeal, the dress watch doesn’t demand attention but rewards those who appreciate the finer details like carefully considered proportions.

But don’t expect any bold bezels and whacky colours here. Dress watches are all about craftsmanship. 

The dial, the hands, the finishing and the movement all take centre stage. Traditional techniques such as guilloché patterns and hand-polishing showcase the absolute artistry behind some of the world’s most respected watchmakers.

Models like the Cartier Tank and Patek Philippe Calatrava have remained icons for decades because their designs transcend passing trends. They show that true luxury isn’t always about being noticed – it’s about being appreciated.

Why collectors are changing the way they buy

Modern collectors are becoming a little more thoughtful about what they buy. Rather than chasing every new release, many are looking for watches with a genuine story to tell or a bit more personality.

It’s a shift that’s helped drive renewed interest in smaller case sizes and classic designs. After years of oversized watches dominating the market, many enthusiasts are rediscovering the appeal of proportions that feel just as at home with a suit as they do with a T-shirt and jeans.

One of the most celebrated dress watches of Watches and Wonders this year, Chopard unveiled a new L.U.C 1860 to mark the 30th anniversary of its Fleurier manufacture. With a compact 36.5mm case, guilloché dial and ultra-thin automatic movement, it was widely praised for blending vintage styling with modern watchmaking. 

Quiet luxury on the wrist

The rise of ‘quiet luxury’ has also helped put classic dress watches back in the spotlight. 

Just as fashion has embraced understated tailoring, premium fabrics and timeless wardrobe staples, many watch collectors are moving away from flashy designs in favour of pieces that speak for themselves.

For many, it’s no longer about wearing the loudest or most recognisable watch in the room. Instead, the appeal lies in the craftsmanship, heritage and story behind the brand. 

That shift was clear at Watches and Wonders 2026, where Rolex continued to build on its elegant 1908 collection. Rather than competing with its famous sports models, the 1908 showed that there’s still plenty of demand for refined, understated watches – and that didn’t go unnoticed by collectors.

A timeless investment in style

Trends will always come and go, but timeless elegance never really goes out of style. 

The renewed interest in dress watches isn’t about replacing the iconic sports models that have shaped modern collecting… It’s about celebrating a different side of luxury and giving collectors even more choice.

If you’ve been thinking about adding a dress watch to your collection, why not pop into our Epping showroom?

 Whether you’re buying your first dress watch or looking for something special to round out your collection, we’ve got an excellent selection from some of the world’s most sought-after luxury brands.