Five underrated Rolex watches every collector should know

When someone mentions Rolex, it’s usually the same names that spring to mind… The Submariner, Daytona, GMT Master II…

They’re iconic for good reason, but they’re only a little part of the story.

Away from the waiting lists and headline-grabbing prices sits a fascinating collection of Rolex references that have quietly built loyal followings of their own. They might not be the first watches people think of, but that’s exactly what makes them so appealing.

Whether they were ahead of their time or overshadowed by more famous siblings, these are the Rolex models we quietly love here at Luxe Watches, and to be honest, we think they deserve a little more attention.

Rolex Milgauss

Few Rolex models divide opinion quite like the Milgauss but with celeb fans like Tom Hanks and Daniel Craig, it’s clear this quirky Rolex has always had a loyal following. 

Originally developed for engineers and scientists working around powerful magnetic fields, it featured an anti-magnetic inner shield and was even marketed to professionals working at facilities such as CERN.

Unsurprisingly, that made it a much more specialist proposition than the Submariner or GMT-Master.

Today, that’s exactly why collectors love it. From the lightning-bolt seconds hand to the green sapphire crystal, there’s nothing else in the Rolex catalogue quite like it. 

Since production ended in 2023, interest is growing and it wouldn’t be a surprise to see the Milgauss become one of the defining collector’s Rolexes of the decade.

Rolex Air-King

The Air-King has always been something of an enthusiast’s choice.

Dating back to the 1940s, it’s one of Rolex’s oldest surviving collections, yet it’s often overlooked in favour of the Explorer or Oyster Perpetual. That’s a shame because few Rolex models have quite the same character.

The latest references, including the 126900, have developed a loyal following thanks to their distinctive dial and yellow Rolex crown. They’re also one of the more accessible ways into sports Rolex ownership, making them ideal for buyers who want something just a little different.

Rolex Cellini

Not every Rolex needs a rotating bezel.

The Cellini was Rolex’s dedicated dress watch collection, named after Renaissance artist Benvenuto Cellini and crafted exclusively in precious metals. Elegant and refreshingly different, it showed a side of Rolex many people forget exists.

Its quiet reputation is now becoming one of its greatest strengths. Since being discontinued, more collectors have begun rediscovering the Cellini’s timeless proportions and relatively low production numbers. 

If dress watches continue their resurgence, we expect the Cellini to become one of Rolex’s most sought-after hidden gems.

Rolex Turn-O-Graph

Before there was the Submariner, there was the Turn-O-Graph. And it doesn’t need celebrity endorsements as its place in horological history speaks for itself. 

Introduced in 1953, it’s widely recognised as Rolex’s first watch with a rotating bezel, laying the foundations for some of the brand’s most famous sports watches.

Collectors appreciate it not only for its place in Rolex history but also for its distinctive details, including the red date wheel and seconds hand found on later models. 

Produced in relatively small numbers, it’s a fantastic conversation starter and proof that some of Rolex’s biggest innovations came from watches many people have never heard of.

Rolex Oysterquartz

Every brand has a rule breaker and for Rolex, it’s the Oysterquartz.

Created during the Quartz Crisis, it represented a bold departure from everything the brand was known for. Its sharp, angular case and integrated bracelet looked unlike any Rolex before or since.

Produced in relatively small numbers over more than two decades, the Oysterquartz remains exceptionally rare. 

Better still, its integrated-bracelet design arrived decades before today’s obsession with the style, making it feel remarkably modern for a watch that was once considered an outlier.

Which watch to wear?

One of the joys of collecting is discovering the watches that fly under the radar.

These watches all remind us that Rolex has always been about more than the handful of models everyone knows. They’re watches with fascinating histories, distinctive personalities and growing collector appeal.

If you’re looking for a Rolex that’s a little less obvious, we’d love the challenge to find it for you.

Explore our collection online or visit us in our Epping showroom – you might just find your next favourite where you least expect it.