How the Calatrava reference 96 became Patek’s most coveted class
Forget the fancy complications and the iconic sports watches.
Patek Philippe’s Calatrava reference 96 is taking its moment in the limelight now – a true revival, thanks to its timeless design and pivotal role in the brand’s legacy.
Introduced in 1932, 96 was the first Calatrava, created during the Great Depression to reestablish Patek’s relevance. It totally defined the Bauhaus-inspired dress watch being minimalistic, legible and functional.
As vintage tastes shift, this model is standing out.
Not just for its heritage, but for its growing relevance among a new generation of new, and younger collectors – signalling a lasting resurgence, not just a fleeting trend.
And with rare configurations and cultural credibility, it’s easy to understand why.
A rise in popularity
Vintage models, especially from the mid-20th century, represent incredible handfinishing, and movement innovation.
So having the opportunity to own a reference 96 would be rather like owning a piece of horological history.
As trend cools on oversized or hyped sports watches such as modern Nautilus,some collectors are now looking for vintage pieces, especially Calatravas – timeless classics that are holding value.
And of course, the sheer price and considerable years you’d need to wait to get some of the sought-after models, makes other watches more desirable.
But even celebrities, Golden Globe winner Chloë Sevigny, have opted for more vintage styles of late. She was recently spotted wearing a vintage yellow‑gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual, sparking renewed interest among watch fans and fashion watchers.
Market data
Market data and collector sentiment suggest there is evidence of a spike in interest in the ‘96’, driven by a shift away from oversized sports models towards small, understated classics.
Chrono24 reported that there were a record number of transactions in Q1 2024, reflecting elevated buying activity in vintage and neo-vintage watches. Data shows Patek’s overall index rose +0.41%: 96 – being one of the most collectible Calatravas – likely contributed to the rise.
In 2023, a 96 complete calendar once owned by Puyi, the last Chinese emperor, sold for an incredible £4.6 million ($6.2M), underscoring extreme collector interest in the model. A more attainable, but still rare, 96 sector-dial example sold at Bonhams in May 2024 for £7,000 ($9,600).
Modern interpretations
Patek continues to preserve the legend of the 96 through carefully considered modern interpretations.
For those who appreciate its classic elegance but want larger cases and updated features, the 5196 and 5296 offer refined alternatives. The newer 6119 and 6196P bring a contemporary twist with elevated materials and modern mechanical sophistication.
5196
Introduced in 2004, the 37 mm 5196 is widely regarded as the closest successor to ‘96. Retaining the classic coin‑edge bezel, integrated lugs, dauphine hands, and small‑seconds subdial, but offering a slimmer case at 7.7 mm, it houses the manual wind calibre 215 PS movement.
Available in white, yellow, rose gold, and platinum, you can expect to pay around £21,000 for the gold and £34,000 for platinum.
5296
A design update loosely linked to the 96, combined original Bauhaus cues with a modern sector‑style dial and date window at 3 o’clock. Looking more sport, it measures in at 38mm.
New Calatravas (6119 & 6196P)
The 6119 of 2021 features the timeless Clous de Paris hobnail bezel, housed in a 39 mm case and offering the ultra-slim calibre 30‑255 PS manual movement.
The 6196P, debuted at Watches and Wonders this year, is a vintage-style 38 mm platinum dress watch, with a minimalist dial and caseback showing off the calibre 30‑255 PS movement.
Want a new (or should we say, vintage )watch?
If you’re in the market for a vintage Patek – or a more modern one, check out our showroom here in the heart of Essex.
We offer part-exchange and a range of finance deals.