01.11.2021 - Patek Philippe

Patek’s new (and very) complicated chronographs

After a tough time during Covid, Patek Philippe is back to give a trio of iconic watches a (very) complicated new lease of life.

Necessitated during the pandemic, all Swiss watch manufacturers had to shut down for about a month. Due to additional safety measures that limited the number of technicians who could work at once in the family-run business, production was down by a third.

Now Patek is back and bolder than ever with its revamped chronograph models:5204, 5905 and 5930, which all boast additional complications and truly reassert the brand’s desire to be at the forefront of craftsmanship and watchmaking.

5204R-011 – Split seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar

The first offering is our favourite here at Luxe Watches. It’s the modern 5204R-011 – a split seconds (rattrapante) chronograph with perpetual calendar. We love the contemporary combination of the rose gold case, slate grey dial and matching grey strap.

The watch features a transparent sapphire caseback for a great view of the CHR 29-535 PS Q calibre, which debuted nearly a decade ago. The manual-winding movement boasts two column wheels, horizontal clutch and seven patented innovations.

 But what we do really like about this new model is that there are interchangeable solid or sapphire casebacks. And the price tag… a mere £227,000.

The sought-after 5204 with its complicated calibre and incredible structure has been around for a few years now but previously only with black and opaline dials on rose gold bracelets.

5905/1A-001 – Flyback chronograph with annual calendar

The 5905/1A flyback chronograph has an annual calendar – but while it’s not the first flyback chronograph to feature one, it is the first of this reference to be created in steel. 

With a 42mm dial it’s fairly chunky and an incredibly attractive green sunburst dial, it joins an existing platinum with blue dial launched in 2015, and a rose gold with brown dial version debuted four years later.

Sure to be  a big hit with Patek fans, the movement offers day, date and month apertures as well as day and night indication. And handy to know that it automatically takes account of which days have 30 or 31 days with one adjustment required in February.

This watch is on sale for around £43,000. 

5930P-011 – Self-winding world time flyback chronograph

This is certainly a busy offering and it’s fusion of classicism and boldness reinforces the cult personality of this brand.

The new 5930P is a self-winding world time flyback chronograph, with a chronograph seconds hand, and a 30-minute counter at 6:00. 

The world time complication is something of a signature complication for Patek, and the new platinum model joins the one-off white gold version with a striking blue dial – an incredibly sought-after watch. 

The new version is in platinum and polished by hand, featuring a dazzling green hand-guilloche dial featuring a circular pattern and green alligator leather strap with a platinum fold-over clasp. Round the edge are the 24 main cities of the world etched in green.

With calibre CH-28-520 HU, this timepiece boasts a central seconds chronograph that could be used for running seconds and a count-down timer.

This watch will initially be priced at around £73,700.

Want to sell your Patek Philippe?

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